the globe rover

Phnom Pehn, Cambodia

I am across the world in another country and using US Dollars. It is bizarre and crazy and easy and understandable. Cambodia uses a dual currency system with Riel and US Dollars (this happened after all the tragedy in the ’70s and the collapse of the currency system). So imagine the shock when you go to an ATM in Cambodia and withdraw US dollars. Easy enough for me!

Interesting thing to experience half-way around the world!

Phnom Pehn, Cambodia

I admit that prior to this trip my knowledge of Southeast Asia and Cambodia in particular was limited. However, since I arrived in Southeast Asia almost four weeks ago, I have soaked up as much as I can and have avidly been reading books with history and stories (more on the books I have read later).

The history of Cambodia is by far the most disturbing and bothersome of all the countries I have seen. What Cambodia endured in the last 30 years is unfathomable. The suffering, loss and devastation is beyond my comprehension.

I won’t go into the history here, but if you are interested you can find more info here. What is important and stands out is that one-third (yes, 1/3) of the population was either executed, murdered, or died from either disease or starvation. Every person over 30 years old in this country was impacted directly and more than likely lost a family member or perhaps their entire family. Families lost everything that they had and were forced to leave their homes in the city and carry only their clothes miles and miles into the countryside. I cannot even begin to imagine…

The beautiful part of this horrific history is the state the country is in today. I put “beautiful”in my title of this entry as it is beautiful and amazing to see how far the country and people of Cambodia have come in less than 30 years. There is construction and building everywhere and businesses abound. I find it amazing the way the people have pushed forward for a future and are continuing to develop given how much of the country was destroyed in the recent past. Many of the local people are willing to talk about their history and experiences and share what they went through.
Upon crossing the border yesterday from Vietnam, we could instantly feel the change and difference. The local people look at Westerners differently and there is plenty of activity including construction and daily life. Phnom Pehn is a big city on a river with plenty to offer and enjoy. We’ve seen more Westerners here than in most other places as it is a comfortable place to be (once you get past the beggars and hawkers). There is a multitude of offerings for attractions, food, internet cafes, shops (including DVD and CDs at discounted prices), and restaurants/bars.

It is hard to see the number of homeless people and beggars; especially the children that are encouraged by their parents to beg for the family. At first it tears at your heart and then turns to frustration when they won’t stop and pull faces and every trick in the book to get to your wallet. But I stop and remind myself that it is not the fault of the children but a cycle of having everything taken away and not knowing any better. Although there are some organizations working to help better Cambodia, there is much more help needed.

I am looking forward to this week in Cambodia and learning more about the people and their horrific past. Parts will be difficult as we are taking a trip to S-21 Genocide Museum and The Killing Fields where thousands of people were executed. I am hoping that I can find a way to use my experience to help in some way.

Here’s to many more years of beautiful Cambodian recovery and prosperity!

Phnom Pehn, Cambodia

Last night for dinner, our group ate at another restaurant that is making a difference in the world. Veiyo Tonle Restaurant and Cafe’ is a restaurant that helps disadvantaged youth learn skills through working at the restaurant as well as supporting an orphanage. The restaurant supports The New Cambodian Children’s Life Association which is the organization running the orphanage.

Lonely Planet lists the orphanage visit as one of the most rewarding humanitarian experiences. It is a great way to see the children of Cambodia getting a chance at a better life.

The restaurant was a great experience and the food was really good (they serve Western, Italian, and Cambodian or Khmer). All of the servers are quite young and on Saturday and Monday nights, they perform a traditional Khmer dance. Unfortunately, our stop was on a Tuesday so we missed the dancing. But one of the girls did show us how they make their hand movements and told us the process they go through to get their hands to bend back (they have to wear bands to pull their fingers back for an hour every morning).

The restaurant allows the kids on the streets selling books to come into the restaurant. At first, we were thrown as we didn’t expect them to be allowed in. However, knowing that the restaurant is supporting a better life for children and youth, it is understandable that they would want to help other children. Some of the kids selling the books (they are reproduced copies which is another matter in itself) are adorable and really cute. Others were quite cheeky and obnoxious. We did have fun bantering with a group of the little boys who know quite a bit of English.

I am happy to see another place in the world doing good for society and trying to help educate and make a better life for children. I will continue to support the Veiyo Tonle restaurant and encourage anyone else that is looking for a good cause, to support as well (they provide their full operating expenses for anyone interested). Here’s to finding more great causes along my journeys!

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Viet Nam

We arrived in Saigon last night to a drastically different Viet Nam style of city. After our one hour flight from Dalang to Ho Chi Minh City (also referred to as Saigon which was the previous name), we had a 30 minute bus ride to our hotel. The first thing that stood out is the increased amount of traffic. We had seen plenty of motos in the other cities, but here they were increased threefold.

Our hotel is near the bus station and large market a bit off the main path. Nothing flash but nice enough (save the smoke filled lobby…seems that Saigon has a much larger smoking population than most of the other cities). After a quick break to drop our stuff in our rooms, we met in the lobby at 5 pm for a cyclo tour of the city.

This cyclo tour was better than in Hanoi as the cyclos were more open (picture a bike with full seat in front) rather than the large canopied cyclos that drew attention. I’m still not a fan as they seem a bit touristy but it was nice to sit back and be able to take photos as we went. And these drivers were more efficient as they managed to keep up with the traffic and maneuver quite well.

Our tour was short (only a bit over an hour) and we hit the main spots such as the Opera House, Hotel Continental (where “The Quiet American” took place), Notre Dame, City Hall, the main Post Office, and Reunification Palace. There doesn’t seem to be as many places in Saigon to visit as in Hanoi but everything is more spread out and seems cleaner.

We immediately noticed the Western European feel of the city. There are plenty of large buildings with billboards and bright lights as well as Western style restaurants and roundabouts. We had to remind ourselves that we were in Viet Nam (although if you look around at the local people you are quickly reminded). There are also more Westerners than we had seen in most other cities.

Quite a change for our last stop in Viet Nam. Today we are headed to the Cu Chi Tunnels which should be an interesting visit. Then we are off to our last country on the tour, Cambodia.

Hoi An, Viet Nam

All the shopping is done, the clothes picked up (or dropped off at the hotel in some cases), and the extra bags bought. Our group went nutz with all types of clothes and shoes, etc.

I have to give a big shout out to the best store in Hoi An. After three days wandering shops in the city, this shop by far stood out as the best…both in terms of friendliness and their product. Our group dubbed the shop “Sweet Ladies Shop” because the ladies that work there are all so nice and not pushy like most of the other shops. And to top that, their prices are great.

As well, they have a great selection of ideas, materials, and can make new designs and modifications. I had one dress that I designed and it didn’t turn out the way I had envisioned and then was way too short after some modifications so in a mere two hours managed to scrap the dress and make me a new skirt that fits perfect first go and is really nice.

The shop is Ha Phuong Couture and Mrs. Ha is the owner; Thuy is part of the family and the lady that helped us the most on our multiple visits. You can’t go wrong with any of the people working there!

Here are the details:

Ha Phuong Couture
347 Nguyen Duy Hieu Street
Hoi An
Auang Nam  - Viet Nam
telephone: 0510.914376
email: giangha58@hotmail.com

Kudos to the shop and the fantastic tailor made experience!

Hoi An, Vietnam

I had no idea what I was in store for upon arriving in Hoi An. Again, I was aiming for exploring the city without doing the guidebook usuals.  But for anyone who knows the city, they know that it is a clothes shoppers paradise.

Store after store of tailors line the many streets. They will make you anything you want - from their designs to your own concepts to copying pictures in magazines or catalogs.

The process is simple…

• find a store (they are all quite “pushy” at trying to get you to come into their store and “buy something”)
• select your design (again from one of their examples, from a picture, or new a design)
• select your material (each store has numerous different types and varieties of material)
• pay a deposit (usually half of the full price)
• come back the next day for a fitting
• pick up the final product and pay

It is all quite fast and relatively painless (unless you don’t like the final product). And the prices are amazingly inexpensive. You can have shoes made from US$2 and up (I bought a couple pairs of loafers for $11, $15, and $20). Shorts you can find for US$3 and up; pants are around $8 and up (as are skirts and shirts). I had two really nice dresses made for $20 and $23 as well as a knee length winter coat for $32. Several people in our group had work suits made for $50 and up.

If you are in for a new wardrobe at a fantastic price, Hoi An is the place. But be warned to come prepared…it can be overwhelming trying to decide what to purchase and which shop to use. We had a couple of recommendations but ended up going back to one lady for more clothes as she is sweet as can be and happy to have our business (one of the less pushy tailors). We dubbed her store the “sweet lady shop” and have all been happy with our goods.

And beyond shopping and tailors, Hoi An has so much more to offer. It’s a great city with a lot of character. There are plenty of shops with local crafts as well as art galleries, jewelry stores and more. There is a small river through the town that is lined with great restaurants (the Vietnamese food has been enjoyable) and cafes. As well, there are plenty of options for bars/drinks after dinner.

Hoi An also has a beautiful beach (the best by far the we have seen in Southeast Asia). We enjoyed an hour or so on the beach in between shopping sprees which was great although hot and humid. There are plenty of hawkers on the beach selling everything but they can also be sweet and enjoyable to talk to.

So if shopping is your game, then plan a trip to Hoi An and don’t forget to bring your designs. There are plenty of tailors waiting to custom make your clothes!

Hoi An, Vietnam

For those who like food, Southeast Asia is a culinary delight. As you can imagine, there is a huge variety of food choices and many things that are unusual to us Westerners.

The best part about the food experience is that 9 times out of 10, the prices are amazingly cheap for a great meal. I’ve just had a wonderful lunch today of shrimp charcoal cooked in banana leaves with a spicy garlic sauce on the side along with rice and two non-alcoholic drinks all for less than US$5. And for those willing to venture off the beaten path and eat with the locals, you can find full meals for about 5000 VND (or about $.33…yes, that is 33 cents).

There are many different types of Vietnamese food including:

• rice and noodle dishes (served with all varieties of meats)
• seafood galore (the advantages of being near the sea)
• wontons and spring rolls
• all types of soups from fish to pumpkin to vegetable
• plenty of vegetable dishes that are great and include tofu and varieties of protein (i.e. vegetarian chicken or ham)
• different types of meats (dog is popular but thankfully I haven’t found it yet)
• local exotic foods (for the really adventurous)
• and there is plenty of Western food around for those too timid to try the local fare

I have had quite a few vegetarian meals that have been wonderful. The first night in Hoi An, I had a fantastic set menu served with pumpkin soup, spring rolls, cau lao which is a local noodle soup, tofu with tomatoes, fried eggplant, and fresh pineapple. All that was only 50,000 VND or just over US$3. And to accompany the meal, I enjoyed a great local brew for 3000 VND per glass (yes, that is 20 cents per mug). Very light and easy to drink and cheap enough to allow several mugs.

Our meals have averaged less than US$5 each and are a bargain for what you get. We’ve had a couple of meals that were a bit dull but those were in places that were more touristy. With a little looking around, there are plenty of great meals to be had and at a great price.

So foodies, make your way to Vietnam!

Hanoi to Hue, Vietnam

I love train journeys and always anticipate the relaxing experience of watching the countryside go by. It’s a great way to enjoy travel while reading or visiting and not stressing about getting from point A to point B. Hence, I was excited about our overnight train journey from Hanoi to Hue on Sunday night. The Reunification Express is a well-known train journey and a must-do in Vietnam.

But that excitement changed 20 minutes into our twelve hour journey. We had barely left the station and were excited sticking our heads outside the windows to bid farewell to the city of Hanoi and watch the crazy moto traffic flow around the tracks.

The first class compartments contained four beds (two on each side) and a folding table for eating. Three of the girls on the trip and I had sat down and starting eating our dinner as we were hungry from a long day of wandering in the heat through Hanoi.

Suddenly the train jolted, bumped, and skidded immediately to a stop. Everyone rushed to the windows and compartments to see what had happened. Quickly the train officials disembarked and made their way toward car number six (we were in number nine). As well as all the officials, everyone who was anywhere in the vicinity of the train rushed to see what was going on as well.

Within about five minutes word had spread through the train that we had hit a Vietnamese man on a bike (unclear if it was a moto or bicycle). I was horrified that it happened as were a lot of the passengers on the train. What was disturbing was the number of local people pointing and smirking and making light of what had happened.

The way everything was handled made it appear that this type of thing happens quite frequently and is “not a big deal”. The value of life in Vietnam is something we questioned as we watched these events and the way things were handled matter of factly and without emotion. I kept thinking that in the US, all passengers would be removed from the train and there would be a full investigation before continuing the journey. Our journey continued in less than an hour.

The poor soul was killed instantly and appeared not to have suffered (if there is any positive in the situation). All I could think about was that this man is someone’s father, husband, son, brother, uncle, or friend. How sad for all those people that have lost someone special in their life.

I was proud to be with my group as many thoughts and prayers were said for the man. Our leader is a Buddhist and said a Buddhist prayer and sent him 5% of his good karma (that is what happens with death in Buddhism). As well, a group of us sat and talked and had a beautiful conversation about life and death.

The following day in our tour of Hue, several from our group lit incense in the monastery where we had lunch in honor of the man hoping to send him good karma in his next/after life.

Such a tragic way to start a wonderful and beautiful train journey. And such a tragic way for a life to end. It touched our group and will be remembered forever.

Hanoi, Vietnam

I believe in education and believe that education is the key to postitive change. There are some organizations around the world that focus on education and helping to make positive change. One of those organizations is KOTO (Know One, Teach One).

KOTO is an organization started out of Australia that focuses on providing vocational education for disadvantaged Vietnamese youth. From the KOTO site:

KOTO is a not-for-profit restaurant and vocational training program that is changing the lives of street and disadvantaged youth in Vietnam.

“The greatest accomplishment for the person who has helped you, is to see you stand on your own two feet and then in turn help someone else that reminds you of yourself, because if you Know One, then you should Teach One.”

Mr Jimmy Pham, KOTO Founder and Director

Intrepid Travel (the group I am traveling with) is a partner and sponsor of the organization and thus, one of our included activities was breakfast at the restaurant KOTO on Van Mieu during our stay in Hanoi. The concept is great and I had read about the organization while living in Australia so I was excited to check it out.

The restaurant is quite different from most other Vietnamese restaurants in that it is set up more like a Western style restaurant and includes four floors (first is the main dining, second is bar, third another dining room, and fourth an outdoor terraced restaurant). The restaurant is incredibly clean with modern decor and extremely nice Western toilets (this is unusual in Vietnam). The decor is simple with concrete finished floors with Chinese characters emblazed in gold.

Our buffet breakfast was so enjoyable that we quickly decided to make dinner reservations for that night (our full group of 12 wanted to join). The food was really good and there were many choices. Not only that, but the service was great and all the employees were friendly and spoke English (part of their training). They have a 100% placement of graduates in local restaurants and hotels.

Dinner was equally enjoyable and included quite a nice wine list. The menu included both Western food and local Vietnamese dishes as well as daily specials. It was a great treat to enjoy meals there (the were reasonable as dinner cost about US$13 including wine and dessert). As well, it is nice to spend a little more money on a meal and know that it is going to a good cause.

I love KOTO and what it stands for. The world needs more organizations like this one that give opporutunity to those with less and helps to provide education to make our world a better place. Anyone in Hanoi would be doing themselves a favor to visit this restaurant.

Hanoi, Vietnam

I love it! There is nothing more invigorating than popping on the back of a moto and winding through the busy streets of Hanoi!

Streets full of motorbikes are everything they are cracked up to be. It is truly amazing that traffic can function with so many motos. But somehow, the traffic moves efficiently and people maneuver through.

There are many kinds of motorbikes from old beat up bikes to newer modern versions. There are small bikes and bigger bikes and bikes with accessories and those that are held together with anything that can be found to mend. There are holders on bikes for carrying goods to baby seats that hold a baby or child in front of the driver.

Yesterday we took an afternoon tour through the city on the back of motos (picture 11 Westerners each riding with a local Vietnamese driver following each other through the madness). It was a fantastic way to see the city as we were able to stop off at quite a few tourist spots and then pop back on the bike without worrying about parking, etc.

It is an adrenaline rush at first to ride but soon you get used to it and learn to move with the flow. Truly, there is an art to the madness and it’s an unwritten code that all locals know. The art of driving a moto through the streets of Hanoi! Something I would love to learn.

Crossing the streets is another adventure. The best rule of thumb is to find a small opening and walk forward without hesitating. It doesn’t matter if the crosswalk light is red or green…you just go. The traffic amazingly moves around you while you make your way across the street.

The Vietnamese are all in favor of using motos rather than cars as it is better for the traffic. And they use the motos for everything you would use a car for (including moving animals, plants, and food). I’ve seen up to five on a bike so far (still looking for six).

Fantastic stuff I tell you and I’m looking forward to my next ride on the back of a moto!

Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

One of our included activities on the trip was a overnight boat trip in Ha Long Bay. In preparing for the trip, I did not do much research as I wanted to experience Southeast Asia as it came and not with preconceived notions.

We arrived at the boat docks of Ha Long Bay around noon and within 15 minutes were boarded on the boat with Ha Long Pearly Sea Company. The boat was about a 60-70 foot boat with three levels. It was an adventure in itself crossing the planks with our bags to get on the boats (pictures these large boats four or five deep packed together).

The bottom level contained cabins (simple with two single beds, a window, small dresser, and small bathroom with sink, toilet and shower head). The second/main level had an outdoor sitting area as well as the enclosed dining area with bar. The tables were set formally and there was a great ambiance in the dining area. The upper deck was a sundeck with chairs and a small railing where we spent most of our time.

The ride was absolutely stunning through huge limestone formations. The ancient myth in Vietnam is that the limestone islands were formed by a dragon’s tale beating through the main island many, many years ago. We were lucky to have a beautiful sunny day so the slow cruise through the bay was quite enjoyable.

We made two stops before anchoring for the night at a cave known as the Surprising Cave which was found years ago and used for storing weapons during the war. It was really large and had huge formations throughout. The second stop was at a small beach where we walked the 424 stairs straight up to an observation deck that had an amazing view of the bay. The water was quite cold so no swimming for us at the beach (although we did see a huge oversized jelly fish).

The food on the ship was really good (plenty of fresh seafood) and the staff all quite focused on good service. All the accommodations were very comfortable and worth the US$30-40 price tag.

The most amazing part of the trip was watching the sunset while the boat was anchored. It was a stunning sunset and topped the just seen sunset in Laos at the village. There is nothing like being on the water with plenty of boats around and limestone islands to create the perfect picture.

A boat trip through Ha Long Bay is something I recommend to anyone visiting Northern Vietnam. It’s stunning and relaxing and incredibly enjoyable. And to top that, you get to interact with some great local people!

Ninh Binh, Vietnam

We left the village of Tha Bak early this morning in preparation for our long day of travel. We travelled by coach yet again about an hour and a half through the mountains to arrive at the Vietnam border from Lak Xao via the Kaew Nua Pass (or Nam Phao). Sadly, we had to leave one of our group in Laos as she was given misinformation and could not obtain her Vietnam visa until the morning of the 19^th April.

I am amazed at how quickly things changed once passing over the boarder into Vietnam. Our leader had given us some basic information about Vietnam and the people and one interesting point was that the people were not friendly and did not smile much. However, we saw the contrary immediately when at the passport control the Vietnamese man working was flirting with the girls (and especially liked one of our group from the UK, Emma, who we have now dubbed Princess Emma). Smiles were a good sign at the border.

We loaded into another coach for about eight more hours of driving to get to the town of Ninh Binh where we were to stay for the night. Instantly the scenery during the bus ride became more lush and green everywhere. We passed through an area of the Ho Chi Minh trail that was lush and mountainous and undetectable from afar as to what had transpired there not that many years ago.

Although we noted instant changes in Vietnam including the people, the biggest difference is the traffic and level of activity. Whereas Laos was very relaxed and friendly and easygoing, Vietnam appears to be quite busy, active, and pushy. The roads are crowded with cars, trucks, motorcycles, and bikes. And the road rules are not easy to decipher. We must have had nearly half a dozen accidents on our trip alone as cars and bikes alike are constantly weaving in and out and across as they choose. And the method of alerting is the horn. Constant horn noises is what we heard during our ride. Definitely a place where some custom horns could break up the monotony.

Bikes and motorcycles alike have as many passengers as will fit and are used for everything from people transport to hauling. We saw bikes carrying everything from fruit to poles to dogs to chicken to bushes to trees, etc. You name it, we saw it on the bikes. We even managed to see a motorcycle with five passengers (this was a record for me). Most of the bikers don’t wear helmets which given the madness doesn’t seem very smart.

There are also hawkers everywhere in Vietnam selling everything they can get their hands on. Our first stop across the boarder was at a small store for a toilet break. The minute the doors were open and people were getting off the bus, there were a number of women around the door trying to sell all types of fruit as well as drinks. And they don’t take no (or the Vietnamese equivalent) for an answer.

Our second stop for lunch was at a small restaurant in the town of Vinh. The restaurant was quite busy with a large group of 20-somethings that were celebrating a birthday. They had obviously been drinking quite a bit and were not used to seeing so many foreigners. They all stopped when we walked in and started staring. Then quickly, they began calling out to us the only words they knew in English which was “how are you” and “where you from”. It was definitely entertaining to have this group of 30 or so people surrounding our table and asking us questions. It was very difficult to communicate but funny nonetheless.

Along the road on either side we were constantly seeing rice fields which is a staple in the Vietnamese diet as well as a major commodity. The rice is grown on stalks in marshy water and when ready are thrashed off to be dried and sifted. It appears to be a great amount of work but makes for beautiful scenery.

Animals are also plentiful around Vietnam with the most popular being dogs and cows. I am leery to see so many dogs as I know that dogs are a main source of protein and are breed for food. But it did seem like there were quite a lot of dogs around the towns that were pets as they were tied up or staying around one house. Needless to say, there was an incredible amount of dogs. There were also plenty of cows around including “domesticated” cows that were being walked down the street on a leash by their owner.

The last impression that was formed today was the number of hats. Throughout Laos, we saw the cone shaped hats associated with Vietnam scattered throughout Laos. But suddenly across the boarder, everyone seems to be wear a hat whether it be one of the cone hats or any other type of hat that protects from the sun. It is strange to see a country to full of hats!

Vietnam holds many different emotions for me given the history but I am very excited to explore more and learn as much as I can about these people. It is strange to be the lone American in the group and hear the different perspectives from the war (most unfavorable toward America). The next few days should be full of highs and lows yet I feel confident that the Vietnamese culture will make a positive mark in my life.

Theung River, Laos

The most interesting part of the village stay was a boat ride on the Theung River in old B-52 bomb converted boats. We heard about the boats before we arrived but I couldn’t fathom what it would be like.

Laos was heavily bombed during the Vietnam War and as a result there were numerous bombs scattered throughout the land. Laos supplied Northern Vietnam via the Ho Chi Minh Trail and as a result was a target of the American troops during the war. Most of the bombs were detonated or had been deactivated except for two that in 1993 and 1994 killed between 100-200 people. Years later, the Laos people decided to use the bombs for transportation on the river.

The bombs have been cut in half and wooden chairs have been added (three to four) for seats. The motors are small above-board motors that use a long pole to steer the boat. It was incredibly eerie to say the least to be sitting in those boats and contemplating what they were once used for during the war. The village people have decided to make the most of the leftover bombs and now use the boats for transportation, fishing, and tourism (we rode 3-4 to a boat and paid $2 per person).

The boat trip took us down the river about 30 minutes before turning around and heading back to the village. Just before we arrived, the drivers turned off the motors and turned the boats around so that we could watch the most amazing sunset. It was emotional to watch the sun set and think about all the lives that were touched and tormented on both sides of the fighting during those many years of the war.

Tha Bak, Laos

Last night we stayed in the small village of Tha Bak on the banks of the Nam Theung River. We arrived in the village after a seven hour coach trip through the mountains of Norther Laos. We had a fantastic time in Vientiane but I think all of us were ready to leave water throwing behind.

Upon arriving, the first thing on the agenda was to take a quick tour of the village with our guide, Mr. Gi. The village was quite small but active with people as it was the end of the work day. All of the adults work in the rice fields during the day and once that is finished, the women have to carry wood to the houses. Funny how women do all the hard work, even according to our guide! Once the work is done, the locals all relax together and visit, sing, dance, drink, and eat. Every village we have visited so far has had a number of the older men stumbling around quite pissed.

It was quite funny to walk through the village and have all the people stop and look at us. This village is used to the farrangs (foreigners) coming but still we are an odd sight to them. One group of mostly women were dancing to music under one of the houses and decided that we needed to join them. Before we knew it, our group of 12 plus guide were being fed rice wine through a long straw out of a huge vase (the local and very potent alcohol) and having pineapple shoved in our mouth. Quite a combination! And before we could make off, we got one more pouring of water as a good luck wish for the new year.

The village houses are very similar to the hill tribes that we visited outside Pak Beng in that they are wood shack type buildings handmade on stilts about three feet off the ground to keep animals out and store firewood underneath. There is only running water at a communal faucet in the village that everyone uses for all purposes (for drinking, it is first boiled). These faucets are also where the locals do their bathing and washing. So all throughout the day you will see them being used for any number of purposes.

The villages have a hierarchy and are led by a village chief. The method of governing is that the chief and a tribal committee will meet regularly to discuss any issues as well as determine punishment for anyone that commits a crime. The villages have family members spanning four generations.

On our walk from the one side of the village over the Nam Theung river to where we were staying, Mr. Gi pointed out a condom billboard campaign. He explained to us that the government of Laos was trying to educate local villages on condom use in order to keep the number of children limited (most families have four, five, six, or more children). When the educators came to Tha Bak, they used bananas in place of a male genital to demonstrate how condoms work. However, the locals misunderstood (adults only as the younger generation understands condoms) that they needed to use the condoms on their body rather than on a banana and were still having as many children. This puzzled them. But it turns out that they were actually putting the condom on a banana and then putting it under their pillow before they had sex. No wonder the children were still coming!

The two houses we stayed in were the nicest in the village by far. They were quite large and spacious with a deck, common area, separate cooking area, as well as separated sleeping area. They have proper doors and plenty of mats. When the beds were set up, they laid mats on the floor with sheets, blankets, and pillows as well as mosquito netting around the entire mat. Six of us slept in each house. The two houses also had a combined deck overlooking the river which was a great place to chill.

After setting up and getting our clothing ready for the night, we took a boat ride on old B-52 bomb converted boats down the Theung River (see next post). After the boat ride, dinner was eaten with the families in the main house and consisted of three different dishes (a salad with lettuce, tomato, pork, and some other items; a vegetarian dish with curry type veggies, and a pork dish with a traditional Laos sauce) plus rice. After dinner we had fresh bananas for dessert (they were small green bananas but tasted just as good).

It was a long night with little sleep as it is difficult to get used to the vast noises all night long (from the Grandmother shuffling through our room all night, to children crying, to animals squawking). The smoke was challenging as well as the family uses above ground wood fires to cook with and it happened to be located right beside our room.

It was an interesting experience and a great way to get a taste of true local life. The lifestyle is so different than what most Westerners know yet there are so many parallels. The village is a happy village and the people seem to be doing quite well for themselves which is great to see. Definitely an enriching experience for the trip!

Vientiane, Laos

Three days later and we are still finding ourselves being drenched with water during the days (thankfully, the water is restrained at night). Today is the last day of the water throwing and the end of the celebrations.

It has been amazing to experience the beginning of the New Year with the Laos people and being included in their celebrations. Some of our experiences include:

• Eating with Laos families
• Drinking with Laos people at bars
• Sharing our water guns and using their water to fill up
• Having our faces painted with black oil
• Being given good luck bracelets
• Getting sprinkled with water from flowers/plants (sign of good luck)
• Being told by everyone Happy Laos New Year (sock dee pi mai)

I cannot say enough about the Laos people and their friendly demeanor and culture. Their lifestyle is so different from the Western lifestyle that I know yet filled with such beauty. The children smile and play as do innocent youth that know no different and what material things they might be lacking. Families with very little money are so willing to share and give their best to visitors. They are willing to learn and desire talking to foreigners “farrang” to make friends and learn about different cultures.

There are also some amazing contrasts to be found in the culture. I knew from previous reading that the country was quite modest. That knowledge was deepened upon arriving. Women wear mostly pants or skirts and cover their shoulders. Couples do not show affection in public (that is left for indoors). The Laos people are generally more temperate and are not loud and vivacious. They are different body gestures and signals to show respect.

Yet, the Laos people are also so friendly and inviting and know how to have a good time and maximize a celebration. We also learned some of their techniques (although we did not put them to use) such as when celebrating the New Year with all the water, use a hose down your pants as a wash when you have to go to the bathroom (it does save a trip to the squat toilets). The rules are relaxed with youth drinking as you tend to see people under 21 drinking although the crowds do not appear too rowdy save the holiday celebration. Driving is also much more liberal than Western societies. As long as you are big enough to operate a scooter, then you are old enough to drive one. We have seen young kids driving scooters that look like they should be playing on the streets rather than driving.

Other interesting notes from the Laos culture:

• the Laos people bow down to people they respect (including anyone older)
• as Laos pass by foreigners for respect they bend down
• feet are very important and should not be pointed at anyone
• the Laos do not step over legs as that is something that is reserved for funeral celebrations
• the Laos are spiritual people in many ways and have numerous celebrations throughout the year to celebrate their beliefs

I have thoroughly enjoyed being in Laos and have soaked up as much as I can of this culture. This is a country definitely worth visiting and is so enriching in many ways. I will leave with thoughts of a friendly, kind, spiritual, happy, and very giving people. Hopefully, I will be able to borrow some of the Laos culture in my own daily life. They have made a mark in my mind that will last forever.

Luang Prabang, Laos

Water, water, and more water!

In Laos (and many other Southeast Asian countries), the New Year is celebrated by throwing water on one another. The water symbolizes cleansing the old to bring good luck to the New Year.

We were first inducted into the water throwing as we were riding down the streets in an open air tuk tuk and some kids threw buckets of water on us. We were instantly and unexpectedly drenched. Good fun and everyone gets involved.

Last night after dinner, a Scottish guy (Rambo) was nice enough to show us where he bought his super soaker water gun. So four of us from our group followed in quick pursuit to get our own guns (The Farrang Four). $7 later along with a local water faucet and we had our super soakers in hand and were ready for combat.

A few squirts later and it was full on war… we were drenched within minutes. Four foreigners (”farrang” in Laos) walking down the street dripping water. After our fun in the streets, we kicked it up a notch and had no mercy on our ride home in the tuk tuk.

Kids were great targets (they were typically the ones initiating the water fights) but even better was other farrang or Westerners. Everyone was our target - including some Laos security officers.

I love this tradition of water fighting on New Years. I wonder if it would catch on in the States…

Luang Prabang, Laos

Yesterday evening we finished a two day boat trip (with an overnight stop in the small town of Pakbeng) stopping at the Tham Ting caves just outside Luang Prabang. The caves contain thousands of Buddha statues in all different sizes and shapes.

The cave also serves as a temple and because of that, they offer “fortune telling”. Sure I thought, I’ll try my fortune…

The first thing you do is make a donation to help the restoration of the caves (I donated 10,000 kip which is about US$1). Next, you pick up the cup with numbered sticks, close your eyes, and shake them around. With eyes still closed, you pick a stick while making a wish to “Mary” the fortune teller.

My number was 15 so I picked up the corresponding 3″x3″ piece of paper written in Laos. Our guide for Laos, Mr. Chang, was kind enough to agree to translate. So back on the boat and after some contemplation (translating Laos to English is not easy), my fortune was told. So if you are curious, here’s my fortune for the upcoming year (the Laos new year starts on the 16th April):

• my luck is normal or average like a king
• I will need to leave my town for some time (I think I have successfully accomplished that one!)
• this year I will be lucky (liking that one)
• I have luck but will loose something like a profession (does it count if it is already lost I wonder…)
• it will be difficult because people will complain to me
• I have power and purpose although the power will leave me
• but I will have a profession to help me through
• my health is very good and I am a strong hardy person
• I need to try to study (guess the thoughts of going back to school are right on)
• I need not be careless

In summary, I was told that if I study and work hard I will do well. The Laos people liken the fortune to looking at your hand with your palm facing away. I am beginning on my thumb which is the lowest or most difficult place. I will have to work hard but will do so and will end at the highest point which is at the top of my middle finger where ease and monetary reward are reached.

I think I’ll stick with #15 for the Laos new year!

Pakbeng, Laos

In the afternoon of our first day on the slow boats to Luang Prabang, we stopped at a hill tribe to see their lifestyle. It was a fascinating view into another life.

The hill tribes were originally further up the mountains but have been “encouraged” by the government to move closer to the water. The main reason is that the hill tribes grow opium and when they are up in the mountains the government can’t monitor them.

We were first greeted with a group of about 20 men, women, and children at the bank leading to their village. Our guide, Chang, spent some time explaining the tribes to us and how they live. The villagers looked on and chuckled at us (we were quite foreign to them after all).

After the introduction, we headed up the hill to get a look into their life and their village. The houses are built on stilts to keep the animals away and the houses are very simple wood buildings with four walls and sometimes windows. There are typically quite a few people living in each house. Most of the houses either had adults peeking out of the windows or children playing on their decks.

The villages also have small wood buildings on stilts used for storing rice. Again they are up higher to keep the animals out. There are also enclosures around that contain different plants they are growing (herbs and vegetables). Animals roamed around all over and included pigs, chicken, rooster, and plenty of dogs.

I was amazed with the children in the village and they were just as amazed with us. They are absolutely gorgeous children and their initial shy demeanor quickly changed to that of cheeky grins once they saw we were equally willing to play around with them. I was in photography heaven shooting pictures of their beautiful places. And the children loved to be able to see themselves in the camera. Hopefully, some of my photos will turn out as good as what I saw through my eyes.

The most interesting part of the village and child was a little girl of about 8 or 10 that was an albino. The village did not understand what was “wrong” with her and referred to her as a farrang (or foreigner). It was so incredibly sad to see the way they treat her not understanding what caused her lack of pigmentation. Given that the Laos people have dark complexions, she stood out dramatically. Our guide asked the mother about her and he was told that she was a farrang although she had not slept with anyone but her husband (there is an initial misunderstanding that it must have been caused by adultery).

The little girl struggles all throughout the day as she does not have glasses and cannot see properly with the sun. It is amazing the little things we take for granted in the Western world that can make life so much easier. Through communication with our guide, Chang, I have offered to buy her a pair of child sunglasses so that at least her days will be a bit easier.

I am also on a mission to find some reading books for the kids to read. In the village they have just a couple beat up copies that they all have to share. Thus, a few more books might make education a little easier. The tricky part is that actual books have to be donated so that the adults will not spend the money on things like alcohol.

The visit was amazing and forever the faces of those beautiful children will be emblazoned in my mind.

Mekong River, Laos

Part of our slow boat journey to Luang Prabang was stopping at a peanut farm along the route. Given that I come from the peanut state of Georgia, it was a must-see for me.

We disembarked the boat into the sand and walked up the slope to find two large fields of peanuts. Either side was fenced in with small green plants. It was interesting that the peanuts are grown in the sand. There was one Laos woman that was working the farm that day and plenty of children playing around the field. Beyond the field was the forest that housed the local village.

Our guide, Chang, translated for us and bought a huge bag of peanuts for 10k kip (about US$1). We had fun looking at how the peanuts were grown and picked (most people in our group had never seen peanuts growing). I also enjoyed taking photos of the Laos children and got such a kick out of their huge grins as they laughed at the falangs (foreigners).

Back on the boat, the family boiled the peanuts for us in their quarters. Our afternoon was spent relaxing on the boat and eating boiled peanuts as we cruised down the Mekong River. Amazing the similarities that can happen such a world away from our own. 

Chiang Khong to Luang Prabang, Laos
Mekong River

Our transportation from Thailand to Laos was via slow boats which are 34 meter long boats. They are owned and operated by local Laos families that live on the boats.

The front of the boat is the captain’s quarter which is basically a small area with the steering area that is covered by a wood overhang. Next is a small open area where everyone boards the boat and leaves their shoes. Then there is another small open area with seats facing each other where the family hangs out during the ride. Following that is a step down into the passenger area which is all covered and a series of cushions on the floor and car seats bolted down facing the front of the boat. At the end of the passenger area is a small table and cooler/cabinet with food and drinks for sale. Behind that is the toilet which is a traditional squat toilet which wasn’t too bad. Finally, is the engine room and sleeping quarters for the family (we only got a quick glimpse into that area).

The ride was amazingly peaceful and relaxing. We were able to enjoy two days (minus and overnight stop in Pakbeng) on the boat for about eight hours each day. It may sound boring to some but it was a wonderful way to spend a couple of days.

Our group relaxed, ate, played cards, drank Beer Laos, chatted, and just enjoyed the ride. Along the way we made a few stops that allowed some local children to come aboard and sell us chips, cookies, and drinks (all for very inexpensive).

There were all kinds of interesting Laos life to see along the way such as fisherman; people panning for gold; kids riding buffalo (quite different than our buffalo); farming; hill tribes; and plenty of open terrain.

I can take transport like that any day!